tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-50081059931576694962024-03-05T00:12:50.146-05:00Symphony of ShrapnelBuilds and ConquestsD. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.comBlogger156125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-78293051444022038442017-01-02T19:28:00.000-05:002017-07-26T12:27:57.800-04:00New sitesIt's been awhile since I've posted on here, but that doesn't mean stuff hasn't been going on. I've been using Instagram significantly more (sometimes it's just easier) and made a facebook page for the business aspect.<br />
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You can access my Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/moto_etz" target="_blank">HERE</a><br />
and the Facebook page <a href="http://www.facebook.com/symphonycycles" target="_blank">HERE</a><br />
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You'll find them updated on a much more consistent basis. This page will be more geared to instructional posts and major builds.<br />
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<br />D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-45027568836802283502016-10-18T21:58:00.000-04:002016-10-18T21:58:20.008-04:001971 Ambassador CannibalizationPicked up a 1971 Ambassador super cheap. I needed some parts from this for the V700, every else is just icing on the cake, let's explore!<br />
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Heads off, aside from broken fins on the left one and some silty material, the heads were pretty rust free and in great shape. Cylinders are locked and very much shot.<br />
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Only very light surface rust in the timing chest<br />
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Carbs disassembled and were sold within hours<br />
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4-speed transmission innards. Crusty, but some parts are salvageable<br />
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Timing gears cleaned up nicely<br />
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Connecting rod bolts look pretty good too. Threads aren't stretched either<br />
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Oil pump hardware and assembly are in great shape<br />
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Lifters obviously need a resurfacing, cam doesn't look hopeless, we'll see how it cleans up<br />
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Crankshaft in decent shape. Some discoloration and pitting on the rod journal between where the bearings ride. I actually took this to my machinist to get it reground and polished and he said I'd be wasting my time. The surfaces that come into contact with the bearings all mic'd in spec, oddly enough.<br />
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Sludge trap plug removed, cleaning threads before cleaning sludge trap itself<br />
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There was supposed to be less than 20k miles on this bike, sludge trap was totally plugged up.<br />
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Rods don't look too bad<br />
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Neither do the bearing shells<br />
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No damage or sludge build up inside the case<br />
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Sealing surface look good, the rest needs a serious cleaning<br />
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The small studs on both sides of the case are pretty rusty. I'm going to replace them all on both sides<br />
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So now that everything's apart. I really don't know what I'm going to do with the engine. It's a pretty decent base to make a nice engine. Really, once the crank is cleaned up a little better and I replace the bearing shells in the rods, slapping some Gilardoni cylinder/piston kits on this would give someone a nice engine. Then again, maybe I'll just slap the bottom end back together and sell it as a project. We'll see...<br />
<br />D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-80044732324771826692016-10-18T21:30:00.000-04:002016-10-18T21:30:47.420-04:00More V700 engine and transmission stuffAt this point, the mechanicals of the build are completely done. Engine rebuilt, cylinders stripped of their perfect chrome lining and replated with Nikasil, new rings, blah blah. Transmission was inspected and resealed, and rear drive has been rebuilt with new splines.<br />
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My picture taking has been spotty during the last couple months, so use your imagination to fill in the blanks<br />
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2 nearly brand new chrome lined cylinders going out<br />
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2 freshly plated Nikasil cylinders come back<br />
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New clutch going in. I have a homemade tool that I used to use to compress the pressure plate and align the clutch splines, but Clauss Studios made a Polyurethane tool for 10 bucks or so that's way lighter and does the job great. Only works on early splines, but for the price you can't beat it.<br />
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Transmission reassembled, resealed, and painted instead of powdercoated. Matches the case pretty well.<br />
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<br />D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-82686262347878188692016-04-17T19:29:00.000-04:002016-10-18T21:16:32.892-04:00Moto Guzzi V700 / Ambassador /Eldorado Rear / Final Drive RebuildReally this is only half a rebuild as the pinion didn't need any re-shimming and was in great shape. That being said, I haven't found any rebuilds with pictures that cover the early stuff, and I do some things a little differently than others, so hopefully this will prove helpful. I cut my teeth on vintage BMWs so it's only natural that this procedure involves extensive use of the freezer and a heat gun.<br />
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Follow these steps at your own discretion and use your head and the proper PPE. I'm not responsible for anyone hurting themselves or ruining their drive.<br />
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The rear drive in pieces. Note, I removed the large outer bearing from the flange prior to reassembly. Also note that I installed studs into drive where it formerly would bolt onto the swingarm.<br />
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First, we have the replacement drive splines. You'll need to put the inner needle bearing race onto the splines. I perform this by freezing the splines for about 5-10 minutes, then heating the bearing race with a heat gun to the point that you'll need welding (or other thick) gloves to pick it up, you don't have to go crazy. Once it's hot, remove the splines from the freezer and drop the race right on, you shouldn't even need to drive it on, it should just fall right into place.<br />
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Next, insert the new splines into the crown gear. Again, this is accomplished with heat and freezing. Put the splines with the bearing race attached back into the freezer and heat the crown gear, again don't go crazy, this isn't a BMW and the tolerances aren't as insanely tight. Drop the heated crown gear right onto the spline piece, it should drop in easily and you'll have plenty of time to rotate the crown gear with ease to line up the bolt threads.<br />
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Now it's time to bolt it on. Some people replace the tab washers with 8mm Schnorr locking washers as it's two steel pieces bolting together, but there's nothing wrong with the tab washers, just a matter of ease of assembly. Use Blue Loctite on the M8x1.25 bolts and torque them to 31 ft/lbs. I used an impact gun to remove these bolts during disassembly, but I'm a stickler for torque settings so I used a torque wrench on reassembly. In order to hold everything in place while I torqued everything down properly, I wrapped rubber hose (in this case radiator hose that I cut in half) around the outer diameter of the splined flange (to protect the metal) and put it into a vice (not too tight, just enough that it won't move excessively while being torqued down).<br />
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Time for the large bearing to be installed on the crown gear/splined flange. Again, heat and cold are your friends, freeze the crown gear assembly and heat the bearing. I heated the bearing until the residual gear oil that degreasing didn't remove completely just began to smoke a little. When it's that hot it will, like everything else so far, drop right into place on the crown gear assembly. These pieces will have to go back into the freezer, but let everything cool down to room temperature before you go and do that. Go have a beer or take a cigarette break and once it's cooled down enough, put it into the freezer.<br />
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After about 10 minutes of letting the assembled crown gear shrink in the freezer, begin heating up the aluminum flange. Get it nice and hot then go grab the crown gear out of the freezer and set it down on the work bench, spline side facing up. Pick up the flange (using gloves of course) and set it squarely on top of the crown gear and position it over the bearing. If everything is heated and cooled correctly, this will require minimal to no force. Once it's on, double check that the bearing is seated squarely in the flange.<br />
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Let everything cool down to room temperature again. Once the temperature on both pieces has normalized, you can put in a new inner seal. You're now about 50% done with reassembly.<br />
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Next we go to the bare housing for the rear drive. We must insert the outer final drive seal. Unlike other seals, the flat side of this seal must be facing down when you press it in (so the back side of the seal where the spring retainer is kept should be facing you). It doesn't hurt to gently heat the rear drive housing, then oil the seal and use a socket to press the seal into place.<br />
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Once that seal is in, I press in the steel axle spacer into the rear drive housing. Again, light heat, cold housing, and it should tap in nice and easy.<br />
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Now that the smaller outer seal and axle spacer are in, drop the copper shim that goes between the seal and the needle bearing/race into place.<br />
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Once the copper shim is in place, again it's time to apply the hot and cold process. Freeze the outer bearing race and heat the rear drive housing. It should still be warm from the last heat application, but it isn't enough, get it hot enough so that you can't leave a finger on it for more than 10 seconds. When it's hot again and the bearing race is nice and cold, drop that in (it may need a few very light taps from a soft mallet, like plastic or brass at the most). Once in place, you can drop in the needle bearing cage.<br />
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After the needle bearing is in place, it's time to reinsert the locking plate. Simply lay the locking plate back into placel; the slotted side is secured by the rib in the housing, and the screw secures the plate against the bearing race. I use blue loctite here and once installed, I put additional punches in the plate to keep it in place.<br />
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At this point, it's time to put the gaskets and spacers on the crown gear aluminum flange. I grease both sides of the paper gasket, put it on, put the spacer in place, then grease both sides of the other paper gasket and apply it to the spacer. The grease should keep it in place and prevent the holes for the bolts sliding around when you insert the assembly into the housing.<br />
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Once the crown gear assembly is inserted, I insert the bolts and locking tabs (you don't want to use Schnorr washers here as the flange is aluminum) and tighten them down, but don't apply the specified torque yet.<br />
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Next I insert the pinion gear assembly (with new gasket and o-ring) into the housing and rotate the pinion gear to make sure nothing is binding up anywhere (note: I installed studs on my rear drive instead of bolting it on, this helps a little during this test as it prevents the pinion gear housing from rotating when you rotate the pinion).<br />
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Once this is confirmed, I torque down the crown gear assembly (in a star pattern) to 18 ft/lbs and then bend the locking tabs back into a locking position. Re-test the rear drive motion and test for free play.<br />
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Once that all checks out, it's time to fill the drive with 300ccs (approximately, you're filling until it begins to leak out of the level plug) of gear oil. Unlike the transmission, GL-5 is ok to use here instead of GL-4 as there aren't any brass or bronze bushings to get eaten up by the sulfur of GL-5. It should go without saying, but replace all crush washers on the drain plug, filler plug, and level plug on the rear drive before doing this.<br />
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And that's that. Make sure there aren't any obvious leaks and you're ready to go.<br />
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<br />D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-13487263635064629282016-04-16T15:50:00.001-04:002016-04-16T15:50:44.633-04:00Well that explains that...I picked up Greg Field's <u>Moto Guzzi Big Twins</u>, mainly for picture reference and historical figures and came across this:<br />
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That explains why I had to contact Dellorto directly about my wacky accelerator pump versions of the SSI carbs that didn't match anything in the factory books. FYI, if anyone has this modification and needs replacement accelerator pump springs, feel free to contact me. It took three attempts at finding replacements (originals are NLA) with the right spring tension and I had to buy in bulk to get them.D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-50067729283846367482016-04-13T07:19:00.000-04:002016-04-16T15:50:27.015-04:00Moto Guzzi V7 / V700 bottom end assemblyNow that the engine case/covers are back from powdercoating, it's time to reassemble the bottom end. Still need to send out the cylinders for Nikasil plating, repair the generator bracket, then button up everything else on the engine, but here's the basic procedure for reassembly.<br />
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All new seals and gaskets. Case and all parts thoroughly degreased and cleaned.<br />
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Cam plug JB Welded (as per <a href="http://www.thisoldtractor.com/" target="_blank">Greg Bender's ThisOldTractor site</a>), this is a point of leakage that I'd rather deal with now then once it ruins the clutch.<br />
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Getting everything lined up, no I didn't reuse those tab washers, but they were cleaned in conjunction with everything else. I'm trying out a new assembly lube, this one made by Amsoil. It's interesting, the previous lubes I used were silver/grey and this one is red which helps a little in seeing the amount of coverage on the parts.<br />
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Front bearing flange installed. In lieu of tab washers, I used 0.88mm thick wave washers as per Moto Guzzi revisions.<br />
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Camshaft lubed up and ready for installation<br />
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Installed<br />
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New rear main seal, lubed around the outside.<br />
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This is a BMW rear main seal installation tool intended for use in conjunction with the crankshaft. This won't work on Guzzis since the rear crank face is proud of the bearing flange, and the center 12mm bolt area is proud of the face as well. I was able to use the tool by putting a 12mm bolt through the center of the tool and reinforcing the back of the bearing flange with a bar and then tightening it up and pulling the seal in.<br />
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Reinstalling oil tubes with new seals and crush washers prior to reinstalling crank.<br />
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Placing the case on wooden blocks in prep for the crankshaft install. The case needs to be raised as the front of the crank protrudes from the case by 3 or so inches.<br />
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Dropped in.<br />
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New seal held on with grease<br />
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Bottom bolts for the rear bearing flange with sealant. I used Permatex Ultra Grey.<br />
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Con-rod bearings lubed<br />
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Con-rods installed with new tab washers. NOTE: When installing the connecting rods, the oil holes must both be facing the right cylinder (when viewed from the clutch area), meaning the right connecting rod's oil hole should be facing down and to the right and the left connecting rod one should be facing right and up. The numbers stamped on the rods should be lined up with each other as well.<br />
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Oil pump finger tightened in place. The 9 o'clock and 12 o'clock bolts are the smaller bolts that secure the pump directly to the case, the 6 and 3 o'clock bolts are the longer ones that secure the oil pickup/filter screen to the oil pump/case. The bolt to the right side of the pump is also the shorter type and is the third bolt utilized in securing the pickup to the case.<br />
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Pickup in place, assembling strainer.<br />
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Sump area buttoned up.<br />
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Timing gears reinstalled. The camshaft timing gear is very, very close to the front bearing flange bolt heads since I used the wave washers in lieu of the thinner tab washers. I didn't fully torque down the nut on the camshaft yet, but I'll need to measure clearance through an entire rotation of the cam once I do to ensure nothing is rubbing anywhere. If it is, I may have to retain the tab washer on the top two bolts solely for clearance purposes.<br />
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<br />D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-3334468154805263092016-04-04T21:41:00.003-04:002016-04-04T21:41:33.027-04:00oooooh yeah...Time for bottom end assembly and shipping off the rest of the bike for powdercoating<br />
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<br />D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-66582585293680438792016-03-28T20:21:00.002-04:002016-04-10T17:28:42.993-04:00Well...It's been awhile since there's been any major progress on here and there's a reason behind that. I'm still waiting for the engine case/covers/pan to get bactk from powdercoaing. <br />
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When I do stuff, I usually knock out things piece by piece, in a sequence. I hate starting multiple things at once because it's easy to get distracted and lose focus. The engine powdercoat is priority one, once I get that back, I'm going to drop off the frame and suspension bits for powdercoating, and while I wait for them, reassemble the bottom end so it's all done when the other stuff comes back and then I can really start putting stuff back together. Now I find myself with a bunch of crap in pieces and more questions/problems that need to be taken care of.<br />
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If you follow me on Instagram, you've probably seen some of these, but at least on here I can provide some more info.<br />
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First off, splines. The female rear drive splines were on backorder for awhile, but they finally came in. I like that Moto Guzzi splines are bolted and pressed (at least on the wheel hub) on, the male splines to the far right of the pic are BMW splines. If you want to replace final drive splines on a BMW your options are getting a specialist to weld and machine new splines on the old crown gear, replace the entire crown gear (and pinion gear because they must be replaced in a set), or do what I did and buy a replacement spline piece, where you need to get a machinist to cut out the old one from the crown gear with a lathe, then get the new one pressed and then welded into the crown gear and machined down, The BMW splines are on deck after this V7 build.<br />
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I also plan on getting the rear drive case powdercoated to match the engine. So, again, I've got parts strewn about while I wait for one thing to get back before I drop off the rest. I may do a write up on a rear drive rebuild. You don't see that many online and the ones you do see usually don't have pictures. This V7 drive might be a bad example though because it doesn't need re-shimming, which is the more tedious part of a rebuild, especially for Moto Guzzis. BMW final drive cases are marked with a +/- tolerance, as are the crown/pinion gear set, which takes the guess work out of shimming, these Guzzi ones seem to go by trial and error. I do have an Ambassador rear drive that I have to fully rebuild that does need a re-shim, so maybe the write up will involve that one.<br />
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More parts strewn about. I am probably going to write up something about fork rebuilding as well, but guess what, I'm getting the fork sliders powdercoated, so that's still in queue...<br />
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Here's something I don't need to wait on. I have to sand down and polish these original Borranis as someone in this bike's past wasn't easy on them with tire spoons/irons. There were digs and mars all over it, but they're cleaning up nicely. I'm doing this the hard way, but varying grits of sand paper before a final polish. It sucks, but it'll come out nice.<br />
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These were the tires that came off those rims. I joked on Instagram about selling them to Hipsters, but it turns out that some people actually do want old tires like this (I guess for display purposes?). That being said, if you want them, make me an offer, but please don't mount them and go riding.<br />
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One more thing. When I bought the V7 it didn't come with keys. I could've cheaped out and bought a generic automotive ignition switch, but MG Cycle sells a newer FIAT switch that was supposed to be a drop in replacement that allows you to retain the old metal securing ring. Well, the switch is obviously deeper than the old one, it's also wider and doesn't fit into the MG dash, and finally the machining of the threads is so poor, you can't retain the old metal ring without modification(notice how it tapers/gets wider the closer the threads get to the base of the switch). I haven't touched this since I made these discoveries, but the plan is to file down the indentations on the new switch and try to get it to at least fit the dash, then I'll worry about cleaning up the threads and trying to get the old ring to fit. If neither of those prove successful, the final resort will be to try and switch lock cylinders from the new switch to the old one. The depth of the new switch worries me and I'm thinking I'll likely find that this can't be accomplished either.<br />
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So that's that. Hopefully there will be better news later this week and things can start moving again.D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-18231395550091470272016-03-05T21:25:00.001-05:002016-03-05T21:25:18.108-05:00Parts WasherI'll admit I'm <strike>pretty cheap</strike> FRUGAL when it comes to certain things. For years I was satisfied with brake cleaner and/or carb cleaner and elbow grease to clean stuff up. Having received the quote for powdercoating the engine case/sump/covers and realizing that 80% of the cost was going to for cleaning and prep, I began to reconsider my old ways.<br />
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As of today, I finally have a real parts washer in the shop<br />
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Bask in its Harbor Freight glory<br />
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I know this comes with a pump that is supposed to only work in water based degreasers, but about half the reviews I read claimed that solvent use not only worked, but has been working for years. That being said...<br />
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Frugality ensued again and I made my own solvent bath with 30% mineral spirits, 20% Jet A, and 50% ULSD<br />
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Pump worked fantastically, but we'll see how long it lasts.<br />
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Since I had a V700 final drive apart for a complete rebuild, why not test it out.<br />
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That's just after a few minutes soaking in the solvent, using the pump and hose, and then wiping off. No blasting, polishing, or sanding involved.<br />
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I don't know how I lived without this for so long...D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-72101975501539792102016-02-22T11:47:00.001-05:002016-02-22T11:55:23.133-05:00Guzzi V7 Updates...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Or lack thereof... Waiting on the following:<br />
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* Engine case/cover to be returned from powdercoat. Sacrilege, maybe, but it'll fit once the project is complete, I promise... Once that's back bottom end assembly commences<br />
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* Cylinder Nikasil plating. Still haven't done it, the budget went to powdercoat. Was referred to a closer place though, Powerseal USA. That's next.<br />
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* Splines! Had a little time to finally tear down the rear drive and check things out. Splines, of course were shot, expected damage on the crown and pinion gears, but both look good. Problem is replacement splines are backordered. I have another rear drive off of an Ambassador, but may bolt it on until I can source parts. Still need to attack the rear wheel hub splines.<br />
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* Frame + forks. Once the case gets back from coating, and I get the cylinders done, frame/swingarm/fork uppers go out.<br />
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I wish I could move quicker on some of this, but my current schedule really doesn't allow me much free time. March should be better.<br />
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Ave!D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-91803763237250987352016-01-31T12:44:00.001-05:002016-01-31T14:19:42.878-05:00Stuff for sale: Moto Guzzi Wixom Fairing, Gasket Kit, etc.Grab it now before it goes on ebay (contact for details:<br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b>SOLD SOLD SOLD</b></span><strike><span style="color: red;"><b> </b></span>Early MG Big Twin Wixom Fairing (V700, El Dorado, Ambassador). Rough, but usable, black with white pin stripes </strike><span style="color: red;"><b>SOLD SOLD SOLD</b></span><br />
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Vintage, NOS V7 Sport (the original ones) complete gasket kit. Made in Italy <br />
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1967 Aermacchi Sprint 250 SS Generator. No brushes, untested<br />
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BMW /5 Flywheel, excellent shape with brand new BMW 10mm bolts .<br />
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<br />D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-88102680191315343402016-01-25T10:33:00.000-05:002016-01-27T07:50:31.898-05:00AMCA Neshaminy Valley Swap Meet 2016Well...<br />
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20+ inches of snow in the area and I spent all day (and night) Saturday clearing it, just to be able to make it down to PA for the Swap Meet. This one is really one of the best in the area and something I look forward to every year. Unfortunately, only myself and about 9 other true believers felt that way and turned up (some nuts even drove down from Rochester!). That being said, the guys that showed up brought some killer stuff, the people that didn't make it down really missed out, big time...<br />
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Wound up only selling one piece (only 2 guys seemed interested in any European stuff), which didn't even cover the cost of the table spot, but half a day spent shooting the shit with other enthusiasts and buying some really great stuff was well worth the trip down. I felt bad for the AMCA Chapter as they definitely lost money with such a poor turnout, it really was a shame, but next year I'll be back and hopefully so will a lot more guys.<br />
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Why yes, that is a "Schorsch" Meier BMW Seat and a plunger frame solo seat. Yes, that really is the price. I don't have a seat for the 1957 R60 project I have and was on the fence about going with a bench seat or a solo, now I don't have to make a choice and can swap them out depending on what kind of ride I'm going on.<br />
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The plunger frame seat will require some slight modification of my 55-60 frame, but nothing crazy. Looks like I can source a brand new spring assembly for it from Germany for about $80<br />
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This helmet looked lonely. Had a ton of character and would look good next to the other display helmet I bought at the swap meets last year (<a href="http://symphonyofshrapnel.blogspot.com/2015/02/swap-meets-stands-and-bmw-systems.html" target="_blank">as seen here)</a><br />
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Next on the winter swap meet circuit is the Cheap Thrills Show/47 Industries Unfinished Bike Show down in Asbury Park. I'll be splitting a table with 2 other guys, so I won't be bringing nearly as much as I usually bring. Honestly I'm debating bringing any BMW stuff at all since this looks like it's going to be a Chopper heavy show, we'll see...<br />
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<br />D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-63199704942449239402015-12-23T21:48:00.002-05:002015-12-30T14:54:00.119-05:00Back together againReceived a replacement clip for the timing chain master link yesterday and got everything installed.<br />
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I've heard a couple different styles of getting the fish clip on the master link. Snowbum says install at 2 o'clock on the cam sprocket, Matthew Parkhouse says he uses 10 o'clock. Personally, since I had the oil pan off anyway, I moved the chain where the masterlink is at about 7 o'clock, pretty much centered in front of one of the holes that go into the engine. Then I took needlenose pliers, lifted the clip into the hole area because it gives you way more room to work, hooked the center of the clip around the forward-most pin, then and let the clip hang (closed end of the pin must be at the front of the rotation with the open end trailing). Doing this in front of the hole makes gives you more room to work with the clip around the pins than trying to use tweezers or surgical tools and fitting between the crank case, obviously if the oil pan is still on the bike these holes should be plugged up and you won't be able to do it this way. Then I rotated the engine so the chain was at about 10 o'clock on the cam sprocket. Doing so allowed gravity to do the work of centering the fish clip right above the second pin. At this point all it took was a slight adjustment of position using a thin screwdriver, and then using that same screwdriver to press downward and get the clip over the pins. I've heard some people using magnetic screwdrivers to do the job, but I found that the magnetic tip was trying to pull the rearmost spacer off, so I switch to a non-magnetic, normal, thin screwdriver.<br />
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Today I got everything wrapped up and started the bike. It definitely idles/runs much quieter. Still need to dial in the timing, but since it's raining for the next week here, I'm in no rush.<br />
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<br />D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-54973624969178375262015-12-19T16:44:00.002-05:002015-12-30T14:50:43.655-05:00BMW Timing Chain con'tFinally got the parts I needed in from Germany. While inspecting the crank sprocket I decided that it didn't need to be replaced. The bike indicates approx. 44k miles and there wasn't a huge difference between the new part and old. That being said...<br />
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The tensioner was well worn. I didn't realize how dramatic it was going to be until I compared it with a new one. <br />
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That tensioner was so shot that I decided to drop the oil pan and see if there were any plastic bits laying around, luckily there were none. Don't know where the pieces went since I only saw very, very tiny bits of pieces in my filter last oil change.<br />
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Before assembling the parts, I realized that the Iwis chain I got came with two E-clips instead of the older style fish clip. I've heard horror stories about the e-clips showing up in pans many miles down the road, so it looks like I'll be ordering the older style from Max BMW. Then it'll be time to get everything back together.<br />
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<br />D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-38492279631002414732015-12-05T15:51:00.001-05:002015-12-30T11:42:30.427-05:00BMW Timing Chain InspectionThe last oil change I did on the R90/6, I noticed some very small, black, plastic looking stuff inside the filter. I assumed this was from the timing chain tensioner as that's the only plastic coated component that could possibly make it into the engine, the timing chain did also appear to rattle and slap a little when the bike was at idle. I figured I'd turn the inspection into an Airhead Beemer Club tech day as the dis-assembly process and subsequent re-assembly is a little more advanced than typical Airhead maintenance. I ordered a new duplex timing chain, crank sprocket, and tensioner (and all the other bits like gaskets, washers, and tensioner spring) from Germany and they haven't arrived yet, so for now it's just the inspection.<br />
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Here's the process:<br />
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Remove the exhaust headers, I leave the mufflers in place. Some guys say to remove the front wheel and forks to give yourself more room to work, but I also leave them on. Set the left piston to TDC (that's the position the crank will be in for the entire process), and then loosen the rocker arms to remove the spring pressure from the right cylinder head against the camshaft, this will prevent it from rotating the cam while you're working. Next REMOVE THE BATTERY GROUND and only after this do you remove the front cover to access the charging and ignition systems. Failure to do so can result in a fried system from the cover shorting against the diode board. After disconnecting all the electrical connections on the alternator, remove the three mounting bolts on the alternator, and then remove it. To remove the alternator rotor, you'll need a special hardened bolt that threads into the crank and pulls the rotor from the tapered crank nose. Then remove the camshaft nut and remove the advance and points plate. Diode board is also pretty straightforward.<br />
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I thought I could get away without removing the starter cover and just use needlenose pliers to remove the wire going to the starter solenoid, but I wound up removing it anyway. That red wire on the bottom goes through the timing cover and connects to the diode board, obviously I took this pic after the diode board was already removed.<br />
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While removing the socket head screws and nuts, I managed to strip the head on the last one I had to remove. After about an hour spent drilling it out, I was finally ready to remove the timing cover and inspect the timing chain. To remove the cover you need to use a heat gun to heat up the cover around the crank nose where it's an interference fit against the bearing below it. After about 3-5 minutes of heating, lightly tap on the cover and remove it, it should come out very easily, if not then you need more heat. Once removed, this is what you'll see.<br />
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My timing chain had plenty of slack in it. Besides that, the chain tensioner was worn and missing pieces of the plastic coating (what was getting trapped in my oil filter, as seen in the pic below). If you plan on removing the chain for replacement, first remove the spring for the tensioner by removing the nut pictured at about 3 o'clock in the picture above. Next, remove the tensioner by removing the securing circlip and sliding it off its pin. Timing chain is removed by large bolt cutters (or a dremel if you're so equipped). Be sure to plug up all the holes that go into the case with rags so no metal can make its way down (I do this even before removing the circlip). Ensure you're still at TDC (OT "Obertotpunkt" on the flywheel). You can do this by, obviously, checking the inspection hole, and making sure the timing marks on the sprockets line up. The one for the cam should be directly above the keyway for the woodruff key (both should be pointing at 12 o'clock) and the one for the crank should be at 6 o'clock, lining up with the mark on the cam (woodruff key slot should be positioned at 9 o'clock). <br />
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I'm not sure I'll be replacing the crank sprocket and bearing just yet, the teeth appear to be in pretty good shape. Once the new one I ordered arrives I'll have to compare the teeth, if any wear is noted I'll just replace it so I don't have to go back in and do this again.<br />
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D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-33816822842328582742015-11-19T13:39:00.002-05:002015-11-19T13:39:45.520-05:00Stupid stuffCalled Millennium Technologies and got a quote for cylinder stripping and re-plating with Nikasil, cost seems very reasonable, may take care of that in the next couple weeks. Other than cleaning the heads and case, that's the only thing holding up engine reassembly.<br />
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The receipts for all the bottom end work done in the 70's indicated that the big con-rod ends were checked and serviced, and in my rush to attack the sludge trap I neglected to take any measurements. For shits and giggles I figured I'd check at the minimum the side clearance since it's the easiest to measure. Can't get any more middle of the road to spec (0.3mm-0.5mm) than that.<br />
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Also tried one more thing to free the oil drain plug on the sump before drilling it out. Thought outside of the box for once and put the plug in a vice, then used my body leverage to turn the pan instead of the rounded out plug. Immediate results.<br />
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Stupid plug </div>
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Threads saved </div>
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Now I'll have to find a replacement plug (or make my own). Going to turn it into a magnetic one using <a href="http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_engine_drain_plug_magnet.html" target="_blank">this idea from </a><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" target="_blank">ThisOldTractor.com. What a great resource that site has been. </a><br />
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" target="_blank"> </a>D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-17624591999936811112015-11-13T15:41:00.003-05:002015-11-13T15:41:47.941-05:00Moto Guzzi V700 Sludge TrapThe Guzziology book says to just destroy the sludge trap plug when removing. They tend to be seized, besides being punched to further lock up the threads. My plug was punched in the 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock positions and was super seized. Allen key wouldn't free it, hammer impact driver wouldn't work, impact gun succeeded only in messing up the hex slot in the plug. My plug was stuck and I don't have a M22x1.25 tap to remove it, so I took it to the old timer machinist over the bridge to drill it out for me. $20 later I have a nice crank with very little stuck in the sludge trap.<br />
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I used a special factory tool to clean out the big pieces of sludge. Chemical cleaning with a brass brush will happen later.</div>
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Not bad for a utensil</div>
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<br />D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-73178760165989037732015-11-12T12:34:00.001-05:002015-11-12T12:34:15.932-05:00Digging into the Guzzi part IV - endHad some time to completely finish stripping the Guzzi this morning, what a beautiful machine.<br />
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The brass drain plug was super seized. I tried using an impact gun on it, but all that did was round out the head. Next I ground down the edges to use my long 19mm wrench on it, and that couldn't break it. Since I'm going to be getting a new plug anyway and I needed the oil out, I drilled right through, drained the oil, and will be dealing with that plug later.<br />
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Sludgy... </div>
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Oil strainer, feed lines, and pump. Looking pretty clean. </div>
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Oil pump gears look good too, but I'll still need to measure the lash to make sure it's still in spec.</div>
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Con-rod bearings. No scoring I can feel with my fingertips, but don't look fantastic either. I foresee Plastigauge in my future and possibly new bearings. </div>
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Cam and lifters look to be in great shape, not pitting or scoring. </div>
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Rear crankshaft bearing removal </div>
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The crank looks to be in excellent shape, webbing and pins show no scoring or visible wear </div>
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Sludge trap, and the reason I did all this work. Don't have time to open it up and clean it out today, so to be continued on whether or not the complete tear down was worth it. </div>
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Engine internals, it looks like there's a lot more than there really is </div>
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Next up is the eventual sludge trap cleaning, cylinder Nikasil plating, head cleanup and eventual reassembly.D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-18498961284184078712015-10-31T14:41:00.001-04:002015-10-31T14:41:22.856-04:00Digging into the Guzzi part III<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Thanks to some found money, I opted out of fabricating my own special tools for the V700 and instead purchased some from MG Cycle. The flywheel/ring gear holder will obviously lock everything up to allow removal of the generator drive pulley, timing gears, and then ring gear, clutch, and flywheel removal. The other tool pulls the rear bearing carrier.<br />
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In action, using the 3-tooth part to hold the ring gear for the starter. The single tooth on the top is used later on, after the ring gear is removed, to hold the flywheel in place.<br />
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This pisses me off to no end. As mentioned previously, this bike had a lot of work done to it in the 70's. Apparently besides new cylinders, pistons, and a top end job, they also put in brand new clutch plates. What I don't get is, why the hell you wouldn't replace the transmission input seal while everything was apart. Because they didn't take that step, these brand new clutch parts are completely ruined by gear oil. Such an expensive waste...<br />
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Timing gears. You can just make out the scant timing markings between the cam gear (big) and the crank gear (small). These were wiping off when I put my finder on the gears, so I had to make my own new markings that were more obvious.<br />
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Took some white out for the time being, need to clean it up a little on the cam side, but it'd be hard to mess up alignment for timing now.<br />
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And this is where my work ended for today. Shockingly, I don't have a 26mm socket or box end wrench anywhere (in fact what I have goes up to 24mm, then skips to 27mm and up, so timing gear removal, and subsequent bottom end disassembly, will have to wait for another day.D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-43614114864554215172015-10-29T20:47:00.003-04:002015-10-29T21:21:03.650-04:00The Placebo EffectI had an introspective moment today. After taking my 2007 VW out on a test run after changing the two accessory belts on it, the car just seemed to feel better. The car seemed to sound a little better and pull a little stronger. But here's the thing... The accessory belts control the AC compressor, water pump, and alternator, they do not affect performance, so to speak, and are perhaps one of the most mundane features on the staid 2.5L I5 engine. Not only that, the belts I was replacing, in all honesty, probably did not need changing (in fact, they're hanging in my garage in the event I'll need a quick emergency fix down the road). They didn't seem stretched, didn't seem cracked, but then again I didn't have <a href="https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_V--2.5/Engine/Drive_Belts/ES2642871/" target="_blank">THIS WASTE OF MONEY</a> . I just had these new belts laying around from a previous part order to make it the $100 required for free shipping and figured with the car now 8.25 years old and approaching 80k miles, it was a responsible thing to do.<br />
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I've noticed a similar result when I do things like check valve lash on my motorcycles, even when they don't need any adjustment whatsoever, they feel better the next time I ride them. Same thing goes for oil changes. It's like there's some kind of subconscious worry that exists until things are verified or replaced, and once you can attest that yes, the exhaust rocker arm clearance really is .008," no there's not metal filings clogging up the engine oil filter (that did actually happen on my wife's Passat). Only then can you stop thinking about every little sound, creak, or rev and start enjoying the ride; or maybe it's just me. It probably is just me...<br />
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Maybe I'm the type of person that placebos will work well on, I should keep this introspective post in my back pocket should I ever develop cancer or something.<br />
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In other news, the company I work for awarded us safety bonus gift cards, which wound up being just enough money that I could buy Moto Guzzi special tools and spare myself the trouble of fabricating them. I should be getting the starter gear + flywheel holder along with a rear bearing puller in the near future, allowing me to go forward with the engine disassembly. More to come later.<br />
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<br />D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-47397480011015164232015-10-20T09:46:00.004-04:002015-10-20T09:46:58.730-04:00Digging into the Guzzi part III began disassembling the top end in anticipation for bottom end removal to access the sludge trap. So far everything I've seen confirms that this bike had a lot of work done to it in the 70's and then sat for 40 years, but there wasn't any mention of sludge trap cleaning on the receipt (just oil pan cleaning and oil pressure checking) and the wear on the rear drive makes me doubt this bike is only a 19k bike.<br />
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Ready for tear down </div>
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Bad shot of the crank and lifters. What you can't see if that everything looks super clean and fresh. When I pulled the lifters out there was absolutely no wear on them (I believe they were replaced when this bike last received service), cam also showed no pitting or marking. There was some side to side play at the connecting rods, but I'll have to see what's acceptable in the Guzzi world, by BMW standards this is way out of spec. </div>
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After a half hour, this is as far as I got. It looks like I'll need to fabricate special tools to proceed with the generator drive pulley and clutch/flywheel removal. </div>
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Generator bracket. I guess I'll need to weld this back together. I guess the previous owner didn't know when to stop tightening the upper clamp... </div>
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All wrapped up until next time. </div>
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<br />D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-42300067376968940492015-10-10T20:19:00.002-04:002015-10-10T20:19:33.179-04:00Digging into the GuzziSince I have receipts for work that included new pistons, cylinders, top-end job, connecting rod bushings, oil system check, and pretty much everything except for cleaning out the sludge trap, I figured I'd dig in a little to see if it was true.<br />
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Cylinders are the original chrome plated type. No signs of peeling, piston does look fairly new. Thinking I'll likely get the cylinders re-lined with Nikasil and keep the existing pistons to avoid the engine self destructing later.</div>
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More carbon on the heads than I expected to see. Exhaust valve looks a little recessed as well, will check compression later and take them into a machine shop if needed. </div>
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Engine separated from trans. Trans definitely leaking gear oil, starter appears to be in good shape with fresh grease on the bendix drive.</div>
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Rear splines at final drive, not good. </div>
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Rear splines at hub, almost non-existent</div>
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This leads me to believe that the bike doesn't really have the 19k that was indicated on the odometer, far more likely 119k. Also, given the amount of work that was done to the top and bottom ends in the 70's, I assume this engine had a seizure at one point which makes me wonder about the condition of the sludge trap. Looks like I'll be diving in deeper. Don't know what I'm going to do about the rear drive just yet, it looks like you can still buy splines for the final drive portion, but not the rear hub.D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-83535367576871784402015-09-28T19:51:00.003-04:002015-09-28T20:23:37.218-04:00New Project: 1967 Moto Guzzi V700Well, I wasn't looking for anything else to work on... The 57 BMW R60 has been cleaning out all the spare change I have in my pocket, and frankly I couldn't (read: can't) afford another project, but every once in awhile a deal turns up that's just way too good to pass up. In a situation that sounds like what a superstitious person would call fate, I was in the middle of doing the dishes when I suddenly had the urge to do a quick search on Craigslist. Doing so yielded a search result of "moto Guzzi for sale 1968," that was just put up hours before me searching. No real description except "nice project" and the following pic:<br />
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Usually I'd shy away from a project pictured as such, but looking around at what was there it looked pretty complete, and the price was such that there was minimal risk in taking it on, even if there wasn't a title. I called the guy immediately and told him I wanted to take a look at it as soon as possible, which turned out to be the afternoon of the next day.<br />
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This is what it looked like when I got there:<br />
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Looking more like a bike, looking more and more complete. I was checking out the Dell'orto SS1 Carburetors (which was the first clue this was really a 1967 model instead of a 68), the the Borrani record rims (free of bends and scarring), the engine that seemed to be free (or at least it moved a little when I put the driveshaft into the transmission and pulled a little), and was trying to hide my excitement at what I was seeing. Apparently the bike has undergone a top-end rebuild back in the 70's and for one reason or another the guy started to disassemble it in 1976 to chrome the frame and repaint and then just let it sit for 40 years!<br />
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I checked out the numbers and found the frame to match the title (again a major plus), but the engine was different. I know this isn't as big of a deal with motorcycles as it is with cars, but I wanted to do a little more research on the numbers before pulling the trigger. I told the guy I was really interested, his price was fair, but that I'd call him a little later after I checked out the issue with the numbers and some other things like working out delivery if I was going to buy it. I was warned there were more people interested and I thought I was going to lose the bike. Long story short, the numbers never matched from the factory (common on early V7 Guzzis apparently), based on the numbers it really was a 1967 model (and early 67 at that) and was just titled as a 1968 (likely when it was sold instead of when it was manufactured), and when I called to say I'd buy it, he said he'd deliver it if I paid the tolls and paid cash - no problem. Honestly, getting to that point was a little difficult because he was afraid of turning up and me robbing him, I was afraid of leaving a hefty deposit and him never turning up, in the end we both decided to trust each other and make it happen.<br />
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All the bits and pieces upon delivery. 3 seats (1 solo, 1 stock bench seat, 1 3/4 seat off of a Honda or something), fairing, Wixom saddlebags, tool boxes, side covers, all the tins, complete engine and trans, brand new gasket set, a VERY COMPLETE bike.<br />
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This was the icing on the cake. Like I said before, I was told the bike had undergone some top-end work in the 70's and was parked shortly thereafter. Well, the registration and inspection tags confirmed the latter, and this stack of receipts from the 70's confirmed the former. Complete top-end job, new con-rods, new pistons, this guy spent a lot of money and I can't believe he never really used it thereafter. Note: there is nothing on the receipts about the chrome-lined cylinders. Those will definitely need to be inspected before any start-up attempts on this bike.<br />
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Rockers look nice and clean. I was expecting a rusty mess and was very pleasantly surprised to find not even a speck of surface rust.<br />
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This is what the inside of a carburetor that's been sitting for 40 years looks like.<br />
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This is what it looks like after an overnight bath in B12 carb cleaner. Still can't get the idle jet off, or the jet carrier (which doesn't look like any others I've seen on an SS1 carb), but I'll get them, and then dip it all over again. The other carb is currently taking its turn in the chem bath. Also, the main jet looks nothing like anything I've ever seen before. you can see it in the middle of the picture at the bottom (to the right of the mixture screw/spring)l it had a spring attached to it leading to another jet with 4 outlet ports that sat up in the jet carrier. I'll have to see what the other side looks like when I disassemble it, but things don't seem quite right here...<br />
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I'm going to have to take some measurements and fabricate an engine stand before I finally move the engine and trans out of the milk-crate storage - then the real fun will begin.D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-43094221442778971502015-09-20T08:16:00.001-04:002015-09-20T08:16:35.327-04:00Ocean Grove Brits on the Beach 19 September 2015Like every year, Brits on the Beach has been held on a day with perfect weather, excellent turnout, and fantastic cars. Unlike the previous years, this time motorcycles were also featured, and what a great, albeit small showing. There were repeats from prior years (<a href="http://symphonyofshrapnel.blogspot.com/2014/09/ocean-grove-brits-on-beach-20-september.html" target="_blank">you can find last year's photos here</a>), but I'm not complaining, in fact, the only complaint that I have is that the show is definitely getting bigger (compounded by a 5k and Fair going on in OG at the same time) and it was a little harder to get good pics.<div>
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Asbury Park looking ominous in the morning fog.<br /><div>
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This guy was taking the Spitfire thing pretty seriously<br />
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Vincent Black Shadow & Brough Superior SS100 both ridden to the show. You rarely see Vincents, never see Broughs, and when you do find one it's usually at a concours event, not ridden to a commoner's street show.<br />
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The 2nd British motorcycle contingent. Egli Vincent, new Norton 890, Norton Atlas, Triumphs, and a BSA flat track racer.<br />
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Marty brought over his fiance's Triumph, it's come a ways back from <a href="http://symphonyofshrapnel.blogspot.com/2014/06/triumphs-and-chryslers.html" target="_blank">this Lucas Electric strike in 2014.</a><br />
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Morgans<br />
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Some MG TDs. My grandfather had one back in the day, unfortunately by the time I came around it was long gone and replaced by an 84 Corvette.<br />
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D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5008105993157669496.post-51248957207078196462015-09-09T10:23:00.001-04:002015-09-09T10:23:42.154-04:00The Symphony has now entered the 21st centuryI used to believe that Instagram was a tool for hipsters, Internet celebrities, and other bottom feeders to post selfies and self-aggrandize; it turns out this is not the case. After prodding from my brother, I finally signed up and found it to be extremely useful. No longer do you have to trudge through image searches for obscure motorcycle parts or one off builds, you just need to use pound signs (or hashtags as I've been corrected numerous times). You can find me at @symphony_of_shrapnel on Instagram for quick images, big updates will still go on here.<br />
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D. Etzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01830481027627495543noreply@blogger.com0